For a standard 60-minute dive bezel, the entire circumference (a full circle) of the bezel represents 60 minutes. Since a full circle measures 360 degrees, we can calculate the angular value of each minute on the bezel's scale:

60 Clicks:

If a bezel has 60 clicks, then each click moves the bezel 360 degrees / 60 clicks = 6 degrees per click. Because each click also corresponds to 6 degrees of rotation, and 6 degrees on the bezel's scale equals one minute, a 60-click bezel allows you to precisely set the bezel to 1-minute increments. Every click means you've moved exactly one minute on the scale.

 

120 Clicks:

For a bezel with 120 clicks, each click moves the bezel 360 degrees / 120 clicks = 3 degrees per click. Since 3 degrees is exactly half of a minute (as 1 minute is 6 degrees, half a minute is 3 degrees), a 120-click bezel allows for even finer adjustments, enabling you to set the bezel to half-minute (30-second) increments. This offers double the precision of a 60-click bezel. While 60 clicks is perfectly functional for most timing needs, 120 clicks often offer a more granular feel and arguably a smoother, more satisfying rotation.

Clicks to Time Increment Formula

To find the time increments in seconds for the number of clicks on a watch use the following formula:

                   

Why 120 Clicks is the Optimal Balance for the Subcommander

When designing the Brigade Subcommander, we chose a 120-click bezel because it offers the ideal balance between precision, durability, and real-world usability. While some bezels boast 180 or even more clicks for ultra-fine adjustment, that kind of complexity introduces trade-offs for a robust tool watch. More clicks mean smaller, more numerous detents, which leads to:

Stiffer Turning:

• More clicks means that the teeth or spring mechanism must be smaller and more closely packed. That increases friction surface area and contact points, which can feel stiffer if not well-lubricated or engineered.

Less Distinct Click:

• The crisp, satisfying "click" feels less distinct or even "mushy." This reduces the firm feedback crucial for precise adjustments, especially when wearing gloves or in low visibility.

More Vulnerable to Debris:

• More small contact points that comes with more clicks mean fine sand, salt, dirt, or other tiny particles more easily get into the mechanism. This results in a gritty feel or sticking over time, particularly if the bezel isn't perfectly sealed.

120 clicks is the sweet spot. It offers 3-degree precision per click, unlike 60-click bezels, which jump a full six degrees with each turn—making fine adjustments difficult and easy to overshoot. And while bezels with more than 120 clicks may offer even finer spacing, they often sacrifice reliability, tactile feedback, and durability in real-world conditions. The Subcommander is built for high-stakes situations where you need to act fast—sometimes in the dark, with gloves, or under pressure. That’s why we chose a bezel that delivers crisp, deliberate clicks you can feel—not vague, mushy movements or ambiguous detents. You’ll never need to look down or second-guess whether your bezel moved. When timing matters, feedback is everything. 120 clicks gives you the precision of modern engineering with the dependability trusted by professionals.

How the Click Happens: Bar Bearings vs. Click Springs

The mechanism that creates these precise clicks can vary, influencing the feel and durability of the bezel's rotation. While "bar bearing" isn't a universally standard term, it often refers to a system using small, firm components to create the detent. More broadly, bezels achieve their "clicks" through two primary mechanical approaches:

1. Click Spring/Wire System:

Mechanism:

• • This is a very common and robust system. It often involves a thin, tensioned piece of spring steel (sometimes shaped like a wire or a flat spring) with one or more small "teeth" or protrusions. As the bezel is rotated, these teeth snap into corresponding indentations or gear-like teeth on the underside of the bezel insert or the main bezel ring itself. Each snap produces a distinct "click" and holds the bezel firmly in position.

Pros:

• • Known for its simplicity and robustness, with fewer moving parts. This often translates to excellent reliability and durability in harsh, dirty environments, as there are fewer small components to get jammed by grit. It is generally more cost-effective to manufacture.

Cons:

• • The "feel" can sometimes be described as "grittier" or less refined compared to a ball bearing system. Over very long periods or with repeated exposure to fine debris without cleaning, the spring or its contact points might wear, potentially leading to a slightly looser or inconsistent click feel (though click springs are often easily replaceable).

2. Spring-Loaded Ball Bearing System:

Mechanism:

• • This mechanism uses one or more small, hardened steel (or sometimes ceramic) ball bearings that are pushed upwards by tiny springs. As the bezel rotates, these ball bearings "fall" into small, precisely machined holes or depressions on the underside of the bezel.

Pros:

• • Often provides a smoother, more precise, and more satisfying tactile feel with a crisp, often audible "thunk" or "click" that suggests higher quality. It can feel more "luxurious" or "engineered."

Cons:

• • Can be more complex and costly to manufacture due to the precision machining required for the ball bearings and their corresponding depressions. While generally very reliable, the presence of more small, precise components could theoretically make them slightly more susceptible to very fine debris ingress affecting the smoothness, though high-quality designs are able to avoid this. Some users also report a slightly heavier or more deliberate turning action compared to some click springs.

The Evolution of Bezel Insert Materials: Aluminum vs. Ceramic

For decades, the standard material for bezel inserts was aluminum. Its widespread adoption began in the 1950s with the rise of professional diving. One of the most famous early examples is the first Rolex Submariner (Reference 6204), which first introduced an external rotating bezel for divers in 1953, utilizing an aluminum insert. Aluminum was chosen for its lightweight properties, ease of manufacturing, and the ability to be given vibrant colors and clear markings.

Anodizing and Aluminum's Enduring Strength:

The color and durability of aluminum bezels largely come from a process called anodizing. This isn't just a simple paint job; it's a fundamental transformation of the metal's surface. During anodizing, the aluminum is placed in a special chemical bath and subjected to an electrical current. This process electrochemically grows a thicker, incredibly hard, and porous layer of aluminum oxide right out of the original aluminum. This thicker layer is much more durable than raw aluminum, offering enhanced resistance to scratches, corrosion, and wear. It’s like giving the aluminum a naturally integrated, armor-like skin that's exceptionally tough.

An anodized aluminum bezel can take a beating. While it might show signs of wear – scratches or dings – these often contribute to a unique character we call a "patina." A patina is like the natural wear, discoloration, or unique finish that an object develops over time through use or exposure to the elements. Think of how a well-used leather wallet darkens and softens, or how old bronze statues turn green – that's patina. For a tool watch, a patinated aluminum bezel tells the story of its adventures, a badge of honor earned through real-world use. Aluminum was popular because it was practical, strong, and affordable.

                 
                     

Then came ceramic. While ceramic materials have been used in various industries for centuries, their application in watch bezels gained significant traction in the early 2000s. Brands were drawn to ceramic for its exceptional scratch resistance and stable color. One of the pioneering models to extensively feature a ceramic bezel insert was the Rolex GMT-Master II with its "Cerachrom" bezel, introduced around 2005.

What Ceramic Bezels Are and How They Are Made:

High-tech ceramic bezels are crafted from incredibly fine ceramic powders, typically made from materials like zirconium dioxide (a very hard mineral). These aren't the same ceramics as your kitchen tiles; they're engineered for extreme performance. The creation process is intricate:

1. Powder Preparation:

• Ultra-fine ceramic powders are carefully mixed with binders (substances that help them hold together).

2. Molding:

• This mixture is then molded into the rough shape of the bezel insert.

3. Sintering:

• This is the key step. The molded ceramic blank is placed into specialized kilns and heated to incredibly high temperatures, often exceeding 1,500 degrees Celsius (over 2,700 degrees Fahrenheit), sometimes even under immense pressure. This intense heat causes the individual ceramic particles to fuse and compact together at a molecular level, transforming the soft powder into an extremely dense, uniform, and hard material.

4. Finishing:

• After sintering, the hardened ceramic is incredibly difficult to work with. The numbers and markers are precisely engraved (often with high-power lasers) into its surface. Finally, colors or luminous materials are carefully filled into these engravings.

 

This complex, high-precision process results in a material that is exceptionally hard – much harder than even hardened steel – making it virtually impervious to the everyday scuffs and scratches that would mar aluminum. It offers a luxurious, often glossy, finish and a promise of perpetual, unblemished newness.

The Great Debate: Why Aluminum for Our Flagship Piece?

You might still wonder, if ceramic's allure of scratch resistance is so strong, why does the Brigade Watch Company continue to equip our flagship models with aluminum bezels? The answer lies at the very core of our brand philosophy and our unwavering commitment to our target demographic: veterans, active military personnel, and those who demand true "tool watch" performance.

While ceramic bezels are undeniably beautiful and virtually scratch-proof, their Achilles' heel is their brittleness. Brittle means that while they are extremely hard, they lack ductility. Ductility is a material's ability to bend, stretch, or deform under stress without breaking. Think of a paperclip: you can bend it back and forth many times before it snaps. That's ductility. Ceramic, being so hard and rigid, has very little ductility.

This means that while a ceramic bezel won't scratch easily, a sharp, direct impact – the kind of impact that is a common occurrence in field operations, training exercises, or even just the active daily life for someone who relies on their gear – can cause it to chip, crack, or even shatter. For a watch designed to be a reliable instrument in high-stakes situations, this is an unacceptable risk. A shattered ceramic bezel doesn't just look bad; it can compromise the watch's water resistance or make it impossible to read its critical timing functions.

Aluminum, on the other hand, is ductile. When it gets hit, it might dent, scratch, or change shape, but it is far less likely to break into pieces. A dinged aluminum bezel is like a badge of honor, a testament to the watch's resilience and the adventures it has endured. More importantly, it remains functional. For our Subcommander, it's engineered to be a dependable companion through thick and thin, the ability to absorb blunt force and continue performing is paramount.

Our veterans and military personnel understand how important it is to have gear that can handle the toughest conditions. They need a watch that's not just a fashion accessory but a piece of essential equipment that won't fail them when it truly matters. This is why we thoughtfully choose aluminum for our Subcommander bezels. It's a deliberate choice based on how well it works, how tough it is, and a deep understanding of the real challenges faced by our community.

How to Replace Your Bezel & Other Components?

Even though aluminum won’t fracture under pressure, wear and tear is inevitable when your watch is truly put to work. If your Subcommander bezel becomes too scratched or damaged for your liking, we've got your back. Simply visit our S4 Supply Shop to take advantage of our watchmaker’s full service menu. From movement upgrades, dial/handset swaps, and bezel inserts. We’re committed to keeping your gear mission-ready and visually sharp. After all, a dependable watch deserves dependable support.

Conclusion: Function First

At Brigade Watch Company, every design choice, from the robust casing to the material of the bezel insert, is made with purpose and the end-user in mind. Our bezel’s robust design is meant to be easily gripped and turned (if rotating), even with wet hands or gloves, underscoring its utility in demanding environments. Our commitment to aluminum bezels on the Subcommander is a testament to our "tool watch" philosophy: prioritizing unwavering reliability and real-world durability over fleeting trends or purely aesthetic perfection.

When you wear a Brigade Watch, you're not just wearing a timepiece; you're wearing a piece of meticulously engineered equipment, designed to stand with you through every challenge. The bezel, in all its technical glory, is a proud symbol of that commitment.

 

What are your thoughts on our decision to have a 120-click bezel with an aluminum bezel insert?