Designing Our Flagship Timepiece: The Subcommander

Everything is a Learning Process

When we embarked on this journey, we weren't naive. We recognized the formidable landscape of established brands and innovative micro-brands. But our inspiration was deeply personal: a shared aspiration to own iconic military watches, the kind that whispered tales of history and adventure – the Rolex Milsub 5517 being a prime example. The stark reality was its near impossibility to acquire. For most enthusiasts, owning one felt like an unattainable fantasy, a purchase requiring more than just a healthy bank account.

Even now, we face skepticism, the dismissive "yawn," the accusations of being "unoriginal," or simply a "terrible copy." It's a perspective that often seems to come from those who perhaps haven't experienced the hunt, the longing for a piece of horological history that isn't readily available at any authorized dealer. You have to wonder where these critics amassed their fortunes, as they seem to believe a genuine Milsub is just waiting on a velvet cushion at their local Rolex dealer.

Looking back at those vintage Milsubs and the early 4-digit Submariners, it's clear they were made with older methods and materials that just don't stack up to the quality you expect from a modern watch like the current Submariner (compare a 5513 to a 116610 LN). The clasps felt like they could break any minute, the watch case was surprisingly light, and that plastic crystal, while it looks cool, was a scratch magnet. We even thought that if you took away the Rolex name from those older Submariners, the average person would probably say they felt cheap.

Modernizing a legend

Our initial thought was simple: find the original specs for those iconic 4-digit Submariners. But that quickly proved to be a rabbit hole! We learned that even with those specs in hand, a straight reproduction wouldn't cut it for today's market.

The Watch Case

Here's a surprising tidbit that often gets overlooked, especially by the hardcore watch crowd: those vintage 4-digit Subs were significantly smaller than you might think. The famous 5517, for instance, was only 37mm across the case, with the bezel measuring around 39.5mm. This is why many "experts" and retailers have incorrectly labeled them as 40mm watches.

Knowing that modern watch trends lean towards a bolder presence on the wrist, we realized a true-to-size recreation would likely feel undersized to most customers. So, we strategically adjusted the dimensions of our Subcommander to a more modern 38mm case and a 40mm bezel. For our Brigade members – did you even notice?

The Materials

Right from the start, we considered upgrading from the original Milsub's 316L steel to the more corrosion-resistant 904L. But after talking shop with the metallurgists – the guys who actually work with this stuff – we learned a crucial detail. While 904L holds up better against saltwater corrosion only, it's actually softer than the 316L used in the original. We even saw a cool scratch test that proved it.

The bottom line? For most everyday wear, you probably wouldn't notice the difference in hardness. But for our guys – the military and law enforcement who might find themselves in a ground engagement where every scratch counts – that extra hardness of 316L became a priority. We figured enduring a land fight without getting chewed up was more critical than years of saltwater exposure. So, we stuck with the tougher 316L.

The Crystal

We really wanted to nail that cool, vintage domed crystal look – it's a big part of what makes those classic watches so appealing. But we also knew we wanted the strength and scratch resistance of sapphire. Interestingly, a domed shape is actually tougher against bumps and knocks than a flat one. So, we went with a thick, 3.5mm double-domed sapphire that sits just a little higher than the bezel.

Ever wondered about the price difference between flat and domed crystals? We actually learned something interesting that might explain why some companies stick with flat ones to save a few bucks! The thing is, making a flat crystal is more efficient with materials. But to get that distinctive domed look, you need a much larger piece of the raw sapphire. It's like needing a bigger chunk of clay to sculpt a curve compared to a flat surface – more material goes into it, which is why it costs a bit more, but you get that awesome vintage vibe and added strength.

The Bezel

The rotating bezel – it's a feature that can be surprisingly misunderstood, even by those who think they know their watches. The classic Milsub used a different style: it rotated smoothly in both directions without any of those satisfying clicks you find on modern dive watches. Because of this, a lot of people who've handled my old 5513 have actually asked if something was wrong with the bezel. It just goes to show that what seems "normal" today wasn't always the case!

Understanding that how a bezel rotates and clicks isn't something everyone thinks about, let alone how to use one, we opted for a straightforward uni-directional design for safety. Now, let's talk about something you might notice: a little bit of movement or "back play" in the bezel.

Now for our controversial statement - This doesn't mean it's a sign of low quality! Even high-end watches like a modern Rolex Submariner are designed with a slight amount of play in their bezel. The reason behind this is to achieve a smoother rotation. We could have eliminated that back play movement completely by using a stiffer spring mechanism, but that would have resulted in a much stiffer, less pleasant turning experience – similar to how the bezel feels on a Hydroconquest. Ultimately, we prioritized that smooth and satisfying feel when you rotate the bezel.

The Bracelet

For those of you with a Subcommander, you've likely discovered that our case is truly unique – no swapping in Rolex Submariner bracelets or those off-the-shelf options. The truth is, being new to this, we didn't have the expertise to accurately measure the curve of those original 4-digit Milsub cases. That meant our bracelet end links had to be engineered specifically to fit the unique contours of our watch.

Finally, we wanted to go the extra mile and recreate that classic riveted bracelet style. It's a detail that really gives the watch a cool, vintage vibe. But here's a little secret: this bracelet design turned out to be a bigger engineering puzzle than the entire watch case! Each adjustable link is secured with a screw and a small tubular rivet. Machining these links required incredible precision, with virtually no room for mistakes. If the holes weren't perfect, the bracelet would be flimsy and fall apart. If they were too tight, the rivets wouldn't connect properly. The tiny screws and tubes needed such precise threads that we actually couldn't find a machinist in the US who could produce them to our standards. Surprisingly, we had to have these specific rivet components made in China because they had the specialized equipment. This seemingly small detail of the bracelet ended up delaying our launch by a full six months!